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Pete Athans is one of the world's foremost high-altitude mountaineers. He is best known for being the only non-sherpa to summit Mount Everest seven times, and has appropriately earned the moniker "Mr. Everest". He first attempted to climb Everest in 1985 via the West Ridge. Unfortunately, he was unsuccessful, and further attempts in 1986, 1987 and 1989 were similarly fated. In 1990, on an expedition that included Scott Fischer and Wally Berg, he was at last successful.
Pete Athans is one of several western Himalayan guides who have adopted Nepal as a second home, and who have taken up the cause of the Sherpa people and their culture.
Climbing record
- Cho Oyu
- Ama Dablam
- Pumori
- Everest
Rescues
In 1996 he was a key participant in the rescue of several climbers during the May 1996 Everest Disaster. For his efforts the American Alpine Club awarded him and his partner Todd Burleson and Anatoli Boukreev the David A. Sowles Memorial Award. The next year, Athans removed the body of Bruce Herrod, a South African climber who had perished the previous year, from the climbing route high up on the mountain. He also returned the camera and ice axe of the dead climber to his wife.
References
See also
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