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Critics Consensus: Even for viewers who've never read or heard of food critic Jonathan Gold, City of Gold offers a thoroughly entertaining introduction to a talented writer and brilliant career.
Critic Consensus: Even for viewers who've never read or heard of food critic Jonathan Gold, City of Gold offers a thoroughly entertaining introduction to a talented writer and brilliant career.
All Critics (59) | Top Critics (24) | Fresh (54) | Rotten (5)
Gabbert's film is part portrait, part city symphony. It celebrates Gold as a fixture of his native Los Angeles and L.A. as in thrall to its stalwart guide.
There's an honesty in what Gold writes and the way he writes it, which is why his words have so much impact. The film has a similar impact to one of his reviews.
It's a documentary that is ostensibly a profile of a man, but is really about the vibrant city he inhabits, beyond the Hollywood sheen and the grit of Compton.
It's a neat little bit of hagiography, dwelling fondly on his quirks, but that's OK. For people who want to taste the world, Gold is a patron saint.
A colorful and loving tribute to the kinds of restaurants that food critics once ignored - and a few fancy places as well.
As cultural archaeology, unearthing the relationship between food and a city, food and a critic, a city and a critic and a swirling stew of all the above, it's fantastic.
The film is especially savvy in how well-organized it is, opening itself up gradually to those unfamiliar with either Gold or Los Angeles while giving those who hang on every word something new to chew on.
It seems knowing the man is less important that knowing the work itself, and City of Gold , while often poorly shot, joyously tracks Gold's way with words and the food he chooses to describe so eloquently.
The film is a poetic look at the past and present of a city much older than the recent troubles for which it is best known.
This is what community is.
Do not go hungry to City of Gold, the tantalizing food will challenge you. It will also elicit an increased appreciation of good ethnic offerings, especially those that don't require a rich person's budget.
An unalloyed success, this documentary makes the city and its subject one.
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