Surfing for Life

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"I don't think you can ever be too old to be stoked," claimed an interviewee in David L. Brown's documentary about geriatric surfers. The film focuses on ten life-long surfing enthusiasts, including some legends in the surfing world: Woody Brown, inventor of the catamaran, former Disney animator and 50-year surfing devotee Eve Fletcher, and "hot dog" pioneer Rabbit Kekai. Though many have admitted that they sacrificed careers and occasionally marriages for their all-consuming passion, all interviewed seem disarmingly spry, as if surfing is indeed the secret weapon against the aging process.


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