The quirkiness and the music are among the things that make up for the plainness and slight boredom I felt during the movie. People's lives are very bleak, their clothing and houses are very plain, their speech so ordinary, and there's almost nothing interesting about any single character. And yes, I think this is the point of the whole movie... It lets you focus on things beyond shiny characters and interesting plots.
One thing I do like very much indeed here is the how the shooting takes place from only a certain fixed point in each scene. The camera doesn't move, change angles, or even zoom in or out. As a result, you're left to notice all the details of the scene on your own, you're left to notice all the objects and actions in the backdrop of the scene, and which persons might be there and what they might be doing or looking at. One of the most amazing sensations accompanying the watching of this film is the transition between one movement and another in a person who's not in the heart of things at all.